About Me

I have been a licensed Massachusetts Home Inspector for over 9 years and have completed over two thousand five hundred inspections. I carry full insurance as is required.

The home inspection is not a pass/fail thing. It's simply an honest and thorough review of the house on the day. Any home in my experience will have some deficiencies. It is the responsibility of the home inspector to highlight, analyze and report on them, and then to make any recommendations. You should know that any deficiency can be corrected.

Your report will be available to you on the day of the inspection - usually later that evening. Each report includes observations, comments, recommendations and helpful hints. Pictures and videos are an integral part of the report. Click here to see sample reports. Click the "Summary" button to easily view the main report findings.

I am fully licensed and insured in Massachusetts, as wellas Connecticut. I am also a Certified Home Inspector with American Society of Home Inspectors - ASHI and International Association of Certified Home Inspectors - InterNACHI

I service South Eastern Massachusetts

I am flexible in my inspection hours, so don't hesitate to text me 508 863 7164 to see if something can be worked out to accomodate busy schedules.


Present Day

Independent Home Inspector - using Multimedia Reporting Software

In 2018 I transitioned to being a fully independant Home Inspector. I used multimedia software to prepare and deliver Home Inspection reports. The software nicely married the traditional text based interface with pictures and videos. In 2019 I began using software from Spectora.com to prepare and deliver the Home Inspection report. It is has a fresh modern face that is well received by clients and agents.


Licensed Home Inspector

In 2014 I became a fully certified Home inspector in Massachusetts - #785. I successfully completed nearly 500 inspections in this role, experiencing the business from a particularly suspect mobile home to a 4 million dollar property on Martha's Vineyard. Nothing was off the cards.


Associate Home Inspector

All Massachusetts Home Inspectors must complete a 1 year minimum "apprenticeship" before becoming fully licensed. I worked inside a professional inspection firm based in Wilbraham Ma under the guidance of one of the most experienced Home Inspectors in the state - with over 30 years in the industry. This was an invaluable experience.

2009 - 2012

General Contractor

Built 2 new homes and completely renovated one including adding garage and living space. Using quality trades people and personal hands on I experienced all aspects of home construction from permitting to completion

2008 and earlier

Building Moving Industry

For over 15 years I worked with a Building Moving firm, experiencing up close the most basic aspect of any dwelling - it's foundation and structure. This gave me a unique perspective when viewing or inspecting any property - I know how to pick it up and take it somewhere else.

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Home Inspection Services

Home Inspections for all types of Dwellings

Air Quality Testing

Air Quality, Allergens and Mold

Radon Testing

Water Testing for Radon and Lead

Radon and Lead in Water


  • Radon Testing

    Is strongly recommended. With today's body of knowledge about the dangers posed by high levels of this radioactive gas in our homes, it is crucial that the base radon level be known, and that mitigation be undertaken if the level exceeds the threshold. One out of four homes may have radon levels that exceed the EPA action guideline.
    This map shows all the houses I tested for Radon in 2019/2020 and the recommended action. Green is no action, Yellow is a result between 2 and 4 pCi/L and consideration is recommended to install a Radon mitigation system. Red is a result over 4 pCi/L and it is recommended to install such a system. It does show that Radon levels are absolutely unpredictable.

    This may also be the best time to make mitigation an item for consideration in the transaction should that be needed. I utilize both a radon machine and Radon canisters. The machine does have limited availability and you should check with me before planning on its use.
    The canister test takes about 5 days.
    Note that I only contract to set up the radon test canisters. They need to be picked up and mailed 2 days later by others.
    The machine test remains in place for 48 hours and emails the results automatically at that time. Click here to view a sample report from the radon machine
    Both tests carry equal validity but the machine is much quicker.
  • Indoor Air Quality Testing

    Measures the environment in 2 places internally (usually the living room and main bedroom). Plus another sample - air or contact - is taken internally and depends on what we find at the inspection that we might want to check on. Also a control sample may be made externally in the warmer months. Specifically measuring and identifying mold that has potentially amplified indoors. Total Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC's) are also measured but not analyzed. Results take 2-3 days. Similar to Radon testing, I only act as an information gatherer, and can only offer limited advice on the actual results.
  • Water Test for Lead - Town Water

    Is recommended on town water for homes built before the mid 1980's due to the possibility of lead contamination from the plumbing pipes. We can do a simple instant test or send a sample to a lab.
  • Water Test - Well Water

    Is recommended on a property serviced by a private well unless you are in possession of a recent well water analysis. We can do a simple instant test or send a sample to a lab. As far as the lab goes, it is unfortunately an expensive process. This test does include Radon in water and Lead in water, which are not normally tested for. Results take about 5 days.
  • Wood Pest Inspection

    Is a report on the presence of these insects that cause damage to structure. Required for some VA and FHA loans, this is a recommended add for older homes on stone or block foundations. This accompanies your Inspection report.
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    Why Me?

    Thats not for me to say. Maybe read what others had to say. I am not affiliated with any large or small organization. My referral busines is largely by word of mouth.

    I only have on line reviews since becoming independent in 2018. Click here for Google reviews

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    Sample Reports

    Modern Home Inspection Reports Designed with YOU in Mind

    View a short video of what the Report will look like

    View a sample report
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    Price an Inspection

    Use this interactive calculator to determine the total cost af an inspection and any services. This is only for single family residential.
    Multi family should text me for a price

    Blog Posts

    Why is Radon Higher in Winter

    I get asked this a lot, as all of a sudden it seems radon readings are higher than we are used to. I admit I could only refer everyone to the EPA website for a "non-answer".

    But then I inspected a house in Brewster that was admittedly a fairly unique setup but none the less completely explained - visually - the answer.

    Now this gets into 'my brain hurts' territory, but here goes

    Its due to a principle caused the 'Stack Effect'. Everyone knows that hot air rises and that cool air sinks, thats why we insulate our attics to stop such a thing.

    Why You Should Never Use Bleach To Clean Mold

    For many households, chlorine bleach is generally seen as your “go-to” cleaner for tough jobs. Mold removal does requires a heavy duty cleaner, but recently, many of the hazards of bleach are gaining more media attention causing people to take a closer look at the way they clean.

    OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) was one of the first federal agencies to STOP recommending the use of liquid bleach for mold remediation. The EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) has since edited their “A brief guide to mold and moisture and your home” to exclude their once suggested use of bleach as a means to kill mold.

    So what actually is mold? Let’s go over the basics to get a better understanding of how it works and how it should be properly treated.

    Reasons to Have Your Home Tested for Radon

    If you’re considering whether you need to have your home tested for radon, read on to find out why radon testing is a must for you and your family’s health.

    Having Your Home Tested for Radon Is the Only Way to Detect It: Radon is an invisible, odorless, tasteless gas. It forms naturally in rocks and soil from the breakdown of radioactive metals like uranium. Since the radioactive gas escapes from the ground, any home is at risk for radon exposure. The gas enters homes through cracks and other openings. Are you and your family being exposed to this toxic gas? Having your home tested for radon is the only way to find out.


    Frequently asked questions

    Hopefully answers to most questions about Home Inspections will be found here

    A home inspection is a professional consulting service that determines the present condition of the home’s major systems, based on a visual inspection of accessible features. It focuses on the performance of the home, rather than cosmetic, code or design issues. Inspections are often performed during a real estate transaction but may be done anytime.

    A home inspection is:

    • An in-field evaluation and professional opinion of the performance of the readily accessible installed systems in a home at one point in time
    • Primarily a visual examination
    • Intended to identify components that are significantly deficient, unsafe or near the end of their life
    • Documented in an online multimedia report
    A home inspection is not:
    • An insurance policy, guarantee or warranty on the home
    • An invasive or destructive exercise
    • Intended to identify concealed defects
    • A code or design review
    • Intended to predict future performance or life expectancy
    • An environmental review or energy audit
    Components included:
    • Roof
    • Structure
    • Exterior
    • Electrical system
    • Heating and Air Conditioning system
    • Plumbing system
    • Insulation and Air/Vapour Barriers
    • Interior
    • Mechanical and Natural Ventilation systems
    What’s excluded:
    • Cosmetics
    • Code, bylaw and building regulation issues
    • Detached Outbuildings
    • Swimming pools and spas
    • Specialty systems including telephone, cable TV, alarm systems
    The standard home inspector’s report will cover the condition of the home’s heating system; central air conditioning system (temperature permitting); interior plumbing and electrical systems; the roof, attic and visible insulation; walls, ceilings, floors, windows and doors; the foundation, basement and structural components.

    The Commonwealth of Massachusetts publishes a Standards of Practice and Code of Ethics that outlines what you should expect to be covered in your home inspection report.

    Buying a home could be the largest single investment you will ever make. To minimize unpleasant surprises and unexpected difficulties, you’ll want to learn as much as you can about the newly constructed or existing house before you buy it. A home inspection may identify the need for major repairs or builder oversights, as well as the need for maintenance to keep it in good shape. After the inspection, you will know more about the house, which will allow you to make decisions with confidence.

    If you already are a homeowner, a home inspection can identify problems in the making and suggest preventive measures that might help you avoid costly future repairs.

    If you are planning to sell your home, a home inspection can give you the opportunity to make repairs that will put the house in better selling condition.


    A professional home inspection is an examination of the current condition of a house. It is not an appraisal, which determines market value. It is not a municipal inspection, which verifies local code compliance. A home inspector, therefore, will not pass or fail a house, but rather describe its physical condition and indicate what components and systems may need major repair or replacement.

    Typically, a home inspector is contacted immediately after the contract or purchase agreement has been signed. Before you sign, be sure there is an inspection clause in the sales contract, making your final purchase obligation contingent on the findings of a professional home inspection. This clause should specify the terms and conditions to which both the buyer and seller are obligated.
    No house is perfect. If the inspector identifies problems, it doesn’t mean you should or shouldn’t buy the house, only that you will know in advance what to expect. If your budget is tight, or if you don’t want to become involved in future repair work, this information will be important to you. If major problems are found, a seller may agree to make repairs.
    Definitely. Now you can complete your home purchase with confidence. You’ll have learned many things about your new home from the inspector’s written report, and will have that information for future reference.
    Even the most experienced homeowner lacks the knowledge and expertise of a professional home inspector. An inspector is familiar with the elements of home construction, proper installation, maintenance and home safety. He or she knows how the home’s systems and components are intended to function together, as well as why they fail.

    Above all, most buyers find it difficult to remain completely objective and unemotional about the house they really want, and this may have an effect on their judgment. For accurate information, it is best to obtain an impartial, third-party opinion by a professional in the field of home inspection.

    The inspection fee for a typical one-family house varies geographically, as does the cost of housing. Similarly, within a given area, the inspection fee may vary depending on a number of factors such as the size of the house, its age and possible optional services such as septic, well or radon testing.

    Do not let cost be a factor in deciding whether or not to have a home inspection or in the selection of your home inspector. The sense of security and knowledge gained from an inspection is well worth the cost, and the lowest-priced inspection is not necessarily a bargain.

    Use the inspector’s qualifications, including experience, training, compliance with your state’s regulations, if any, and professional affiliations as a guide.

    For most homes, the basic inspection fee will be from $425 to $500. Additional costing according to size and age, additional buildings and additional services will increase this price.

    Try my price calculator


    Your inspection is an introduction to the house and is focused on informing and educating the client about the property. A code inspection is conducted from the perspective of the local municipality and focuses on compliance with local and state codes. Our inspector usually is aware of local codes but the scope of a home inspection is targeted more at providing an informative, detailed and objective evaluation of the house.

    All Home Inspectors are licensed professionals certified by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. They are governed by a Standards of Practice and a Code of Ethics. They all must carry General Liability as well as Errors and Omissions insurance. All must complete a mandated number of continuing education classes and must re-certify every 2 years.
    No, but I recommend that you join for at least the last portion if possible.

    If you can’t join the inspection on site, the digital inspection report provides summary, specific findings, identification of potential issues, recommendations, and high resolution photographs. I am always available via e-mail or phone after the inspection to answer any questions.

    You’re welcome to attend the entire inspection. Our inspector will show you how various systems operate and how to properly maintain them. You’ll also have a better understanding of the contents of the report if you are able to see it from our inspector’s perspective.

    About two to three hours for a single family home.

    Townhomes and condos take less time.
    On-site time depends on the size and age of the house; larger, older and more complex houses take more time.

    Our inspection report is our product and we think it’s the best inspection report in the industry – factual, graphical, colorful, and educational.

    Our Home Inspection report gives you a comprehensive understanding of the visible condition of the property across a dozen major categories: Exterior, Roof, Structure, Water Control Systems, Insulation and Ventilation, Interior, Electrical, HVAC, Plumbing, Fuel Services, Appliances and Environmental Systems. If we identify issues, we provide you with specific recommendations and next steps.

    Our reports meet the state inspection standards, and include video and high resolution photos, many annotated to more clearly highlight the information.

    Via e-mail

    Your report will be available within 24 hours as the stated guarantee, but unless you are otherwise informed, it will be viewable later that day - usually at night

    The difference is that a home inspector is there to inspect the home for the condition of the home and a home apprasial is there to estimate the home value. While a VA or FHA home apprasial will include issues that likely need further review by a license contractor, their's is not a comprehensive review of all the sub-systems of the house as seen through the experienced eyes of a home inspector. Another difference is that the home inspector is going to crawl through your attic and crawlspace (if you have one) to determine the condition of the home.
    Yes, we can still inspect the house, but there will obviously be a few limitations, the largest being the roof covering. When roof coverings are buried in snow, they can’t be inspected. It’s a lot more work for us to inspect houses when there’s a lot of snow on the ground, but it’s OK. We don’t charge any more for the inspection when we have to trudge through the snow.
    Typically we’ll set up the inspection with the listing agent or seller. Due to common sense principles, we cannot inspect a home without the presence of a licensed realtor invoved in the transaction (and therefore carrying professional liability) unless the seller issues an indemnity against loss or damage.
    Yes, we email the inspection agreement to our clients at the time we book the inspection, and we ask our clients to review and accept out the inspection agreement online ahead of time.
    Payment is due at the completion of the physical inspection and before delivery of the final report. You can pay securely on-line at the report link using the Authorize.net portal, or by cash or check
    I write the report when I get home. Your report contains much more than just what might be needing attention. It's also a how to manual for your new home. I supply lots of information specific to your home, as if I was explaining things for a friend or family member. I'll spend almost as much time writing the report as inspecting. After you read one of my inspection reports, I think you’ll understand why I don’t produce the reports on site.
    In short YES! While we can still conduct the inspection in the event they are not, it severely limits our scope and potentially reduces our ability to find defects.
    Grading or slope of the land is important around the home because it will determine which direction surface water will flow. Negative grading is when the surface slopes towards the foundation wall. This can allow surface water to run directly against the wall and potentially seep into the basement or crawlspace. Regrading the area around the foundation walls repairs the majority of the basement water penetration problems. Many problems occur when people install flower gardens or put mulch up against a foundation wall. In order to properly fix a negative grading condition, the top, porous soil must be removed in the affected area and well-compacted, non-porous clay or similar soil must be added and re-graded. The newly added soil around the perimeter of the home should slope away (at a minimum rate of one inch per foot for the first 6 feet) from the house to prevent rainwater from accumulating next to the foundation. Learn more about grading and controlling surface water.
    There is no accurate method to determine exactly how long a particular system or component is going to last. This is due to a number of reasons: the geographic area; the physical location of the units; and the climate and weather. This is similar to asking how long a car lasts. There are too many variables to determine the life span of items that need maintenance and have thousands of integral components. For example, with heating systems, many factors can directly affect the life span of the appliance. If the furnace is located in an unconditioned crawlspace or in the attic, the elevated humidity levels can rapidly cause heat exchangers to prematurely rust. In addition, when furnaces are used in the colder months, the differences between the low air temperature and the high temperature of the heat exchanger can cause expansion/contraction cracking that can lead to leaks in the heat exchanger. Boilers traditionally had long lifespans - 25 years was commonly attained - but newer energy efficient models have a short payback period and are now more common. Roofs, on the other hand, can be affected by factors like the amount of direct sunlight, adequacy of attic ventilation, number of layers of roofing material, as well as the quality of the roofing material itself. Climate and weather can affect the life of the roof also. In the Northeastern states roofing material can last 20 to 25 years or longer.

    Roofing Asphalt Composition Shingle 20 Years
    Asphalt Architectural Shingle25+ years
    Built-Up Roofing10 – 15 Years
    EPDM Rubber Roofing15 – 30 Years
    Wood Shakes / Shingles20 – 25 Years
    Slate Roofing50 Plus Years
    Metal Roofing (flat, standing-seam, corrugated)Indefinite
    Gutters and Downspouts20 Years
    HeatingTraditional Boiler (Baseboard / Steam)25 – 40 Years
    Forced Air Furnace – Gas20 Years
    Forced Air Furnace – Oil25 Years
    CoolingMini Split/Heat Pump15 Years
    Central Split System15 Years
    A/C Compressor10 – 15 Years
    Plumbing Water Heater – Electric 10 – 12 Years
    Water Heater – Gas 10 – 12 Years
    Water Heater – Oil 10 – 15 Years
    Sump Pump5 – 8 Years
    Well Pump10 – 15 Years
    Kitchen / AppliancesDishwasher5 – 10 Years
    Garbage Disposal5 – 10 Years
    Cook Top – (Electric / Gas)15 – 20 Years
    Range / Oven15 – 20 Years
    Refrigerator5 – 25 Years
    Trash Compactor5 – 10 Years
    Ventilator / Draft Hood8 – 12 Years
    Washing Machine / Clothes Dryer8 – 12 Years
    MiscellaneousChemical Termite Treatment (subterranean)5 Years
    Fumigation for Drywood Termites2 Years
    Radon Mitigation SystemLife of the fan
    Double-tapping, also known as “double-lugging,” is a condition where there is more than one wire conductor terminated in a service panel fuse or circuit breaker. Double-tapping is permissible only if the terminals are identified for that use. Most breakers and fuse connections are designed to hold and handle just a single incoming circuit, although there are some manufacturers, such as Square-D™, that market breakers designed to allow two wires to be securely attached. Any time repairs are performed on or within the electrical system and its components, a licensed electrician should be contacted to make these repairs.
    Just like anything else, “you get what you pay for.” If you price shop to find the cheapest home inspectors, you will get burned. We see it all the time. Home inspectors that charge low prices will push for high volume which means they are trying to inspect 3 homes a day. It is absolutely impossible to be thorough when inspecting that many!
    An insulated glass seal is a window made up of two or more layers of glass held together in a track or frame. A gasketed channel separates the two pieces of glass, and the space between the panes is filled with a moisture-free, inert gas such as nitrogen. When a gasket fails, the inert gas between the panes escapes to the exterior of the window and regular, moisture-laden air is drawn into the space. This does not greatly affect the insulation value of the window but will affect the visibility through the glass. When this happens, the window will look dirty or foggy and you will not be able to clean it off. This is because the fogged or filmed surface will be between the two panes of glass and not on the outer surfaces. If there is a lot of moisture in the air you will also see condensation on the interior of the window. There is no warning device on a window or door that will indicate when the seal will fail. Most window manufacturers have some kind of warranty that will cover possible seal failures, but the length of time the warranty covers varies. The longer the failed seal is present, coupled with major temperature differences between inside and outside environments, the more obvious the failure will become.
    Before you store anything in your attic, you need to ensure that the attic framing is designed and capable of supporting the loads you intend to place there. There are basically two methods of construction in the attics of single family dwellings–conventional or stick-framing, and engineered or truss-framing. Conventionally framed roofs consist of rafters or boards that make up the slope of the roof; ceiling joists that make up both the floor of the attic space and the ceiling framing for the floor below; and the ridge board, which provides both an anchoring point and additional support to the tops of the rafters. Conventional roof framing is usually made up of large stock dimensional lumber such as 2×8, 2×10, or 2×12 boards. Trusses are engineered products that are designed and built to combine the rafter, ceiling joist and ridge all into one component, and are usually built of 2×4 lumber secured together using perforated metal plates at all joints. Unless they are specifically designed for carrying the additional load, trusses will not adequately support your stored items. You will experience cracking and damage to the finished ceiling in the floor below, as well as possible structural damage to the trusses themselves. Conventionally framed roofs may be more forgiving, however, a licensed contractor or structural engineer should be consulted before making any modifications to your attic framing. Practically speaking, attics, unless reinforced, well vented, or designed as conditioned space, are generally not an ideal place to store items. Temperatures may vary too much, pests may be involved, and the risk of falling through the ceiling is greatest in the attic. Not to mention the accelerated deterioration heat will have on your paper momentos and Kodak pictures.
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